Before beginning our hike, we traveled to Ganden Sumtseling Monastery. Established in 1679, it is the largest and most important monastery in southwest China. Established by the fifth Dalai Lama, it represents the Yellow Hat sect of Buddhism. Though it was damaged during the Chinese Cultural Revolution, it was rebuilt and now houses 700 monks in 200 structures. At one point, it housed over 2000 monks. Located just outside Shangri-La at 11,000 feet, various trails lead from the monastery to Lhasa in Tibet, or to Vietnam in the east. The main prayer halls contain hundreds of Buddha statues, including some gilded figures that are over 25 feet tall. Prayer wheels, prayer flags, and Buddhist scarves adorn the monastery complex.
Though practicing Buddhists are persecuted in Tibet, China seems to endorse the practice of Buddhism in territories that welcome Chinese rule. The practice has been commercialized, to some extent, in order to draw tourism dollars. Look no further than the rebranding of this area as "Shangri-La" to see evidence of that. In many ways, the monastery is an odd combination of indigenous culture and its commodification. Just outside the main prayer halls, which exude a smoky and sincere faith, monks sell prayer beads and prayer wheels to tourists. And while these items in themselves are holy, and are blessed by a monk if you buy one there, it was odd to see them for sale in the monastery. I was reassured to see so many Tibetans (and other ethnic minorities) practicing their faith, but indigenous cultures and religions lead a complicated existence in this part of the world. Just across the border in Tibet, Buddhists can't have a picture of the Dalai Lama in their house.
It's unclear what China's endgame is in Tibet: whether it's a land grab, a bid for resources, or something else. It could be as simple and ironic as the fact that these people are allowed more freedom because they are not demanding independence. Left unresolved, for me at least, is why the same conditions couldn't exist in Tibet, or why the Chinese see the Dalai Lama as so threatening.
Though cameras are prohibited in the main prayer halls, below you can see some pictures of the monastery complex.
Though practicing Buddhists are persecuted in Tibet, China seems to endorse the practice of Buddhism in territories that welcome Chinese rule. The practice has been commercialized, to some extent, in order to draw tourism dollars. Look no further than the rebranding of this area as "Shangri-La" to see evidence of that. In many ways, the monastery is an odd combination of indigenous culture and its commodification. Just outside the main prayer halls, which exude a smoky and sincere faith, monks sell prayer beads and prayer wheels to tourists. And while these items in themselves are holy, and are blessed by a monk if you buy one there, it was odd to see them for sale in the monastery. I was reassured to see so many Tibetans (and other ethnic minorities) practicing their faith, but indigenous cultures and religions lead a complicated existence in this part of the world. Just across the border in Tibet, Buddhists can't have a picture of the Dalai Lama in their house.
It's unclear what China's endgame is in Tibet: whether it's a land grab, a bid for resources, or something else. It could be as simple and ironic as the fact that these people are allowed more freedom because they are not demanding independence. Left unresolved, for me at least, is why the same conditions couldn't exist in Tibet, or why the Chinese see the Dalai Lama as so threatening.
Though cameras are prohibited in the main prayer halls, below you can see some pictures of the monastery complex.
The main prayer halls are under the golden roofs.
After testing our acclimatization by climbing the main set of stairs (it left us all winded), we enjoyed the view of the rolling farmland on the main platform.
A monk exits one of the main prayer halls. In Tibetan culture, the youngest son is often sent to a monastery.
Monks reflecting (above) and working (below)
Strike a pose: one final bit of calm before setting off on our hike.
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